Day 8 – Trains, Pottery, and the Million Buddha Shrine

This morning we board the train for the two-hour journey south form Kanazawa to Kyoto, Japan’s Imperial Capital for a millennium and now the country’s cultural and artistic capital. A true gem with more than 1,600 temples, hundreds of shrines, three imperial palaces, artful gardens, and well-preserved wooden architecture, Kyoto embodies Japan’s rich culture and complex history. The art of kabuki theatre, as well as Japanese gardens, traditional cuisine, and superb crafts thrive here, attracting legions of visitors and Japanese alike.

Now, the trains – a lot of you have seen the posts on facebook about how crowded, smushed, and crazy the train stations were – I don’t think so at all! Actually they were very organized, well run, and clean!

I was waiting in line at one of the restrooms (when isn’t there a line for women anywhere in the world!) and by accident one of the other tourists hit a red button on the wall.  Almost immediately (5 seconds max!) a female police officer came over (in a very orderly run if you can ever call a run orderly) and peered into the line asking if there was a problem, was someone hurt!  I was SO impressed!  Even if America had a button for an emergency, we would be talking about a 20 minute wait before someone came over, and it would have been a slow crawl instead of such amazing service and assistance.  Go Japan!

But, back to the trains, as you can see in the pictures below – I don’t think it was all THAT bad!  Your thoughts?

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Upon arrival in Kyoto we visited the currently producing pottery shop of a very ancient pottery family, Unrakugama Pottery, a family-owned pottery house producing fine handmade ceramics and earthenware..  They have been producing and training professional potters for over 125 years in this very location!

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After visiting the pottery center, we then went to see the shrine of 1 million Buddhas – the Sanjusangen-do.2016-04-07 14.45.49

I really wish that we were able to take pictures inside, but we weren’t able to do this.  The Buddhas were too old and they were afraid of flashes destroying more of the beautiful gold leaf and designs on each of the Buddhas.  So, the best I can do is some fun pictures of me outside of the main temple and a few websites for you to see professionally allowed photos of the shrine.  2016-04-07 14.48.522016-04-07 14.47.092016-04-07 14.46.332016-04-07 14.46.002016-04-07 14.47.35
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gDDK-Fof-A]

In the temple itself there are one thousand life-size statues of the Thousand Armed Kannon which stand on both the right and left sides of the main statue of Buddha.  Each statute has 100 arms for a total of 1 million hands to help lift your spirit to enlightenment / heaven.

A few websites with some amazing photography of what we saw – just breathtaking!!

Sanjūsangen-dō – on Wiki

Google Images

 

Day 7 – Kanazawa, Gold, Samurai, & Sea Cucumbers?

Today we toured the Hakukokan Gold Leaf Museum in Kanazawa.  This is one of the top 3 producers of Gold Leaf in all of Japan (Kanazawa produces over 98% of all gold leaf in the world!).  Our representative at the house and gallery was very proud of his company, you could tell by the pride and fervor with which he spokes of his company, their history, and what amazing product they make. The Hakukokan celebrate the art and craft of gold leaf technology and houses a collection dating to the late 16th century! Pretty cool!

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You can see these replicas of temple pagodas which have been covered from top to bottom in gold leaf.

If you zoom in on the pictures you will notice that there is not the slightest wrinkle in any way on any of these intricate details. Gold leaf is applied by hand and can only be touched with chopsticks because the gold leaf is so thin that it will stick to your fingers and the oil on your hands if you attempt to touch it.

They even put it on food here! The gold is supposed to pull all impurities out of your system as it passes through! Love it!

Here you can see a video of an artisan pounding the boldly using the machine. In the past this process was done by a master and his student. With the master slowly turning the bundle and the student using two hammers to pound the package of goldleaf. NOTE! That drumming sound you are hearing from the machines in the video below – inside that room it’s as loud as the inside of a jet engine!!!  Thank goodness for earplugs!

One of the things that I thought was interesting was how all of the pieces of this process are then being used again in some other way. The pieces of paper that separate each small sheet of gold leaf as it gets pounded are later used as Oil Blotting Paper Sheets
(historically by the geisha, and currently by the local girls while they are out on a hot summer day). I have to admit that I bought a package for myself, and have been using it along the trip. I will definitely be buying more of this for our hot Arizona summers!

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The glittering Kinpaku no Ma (or Room of Gold) is especially beautiful!

 

Next we went to the Nagamachi Samurai district, where the ruling family’s samurai warriors lived on narrow streets protected by tile-roofed earthen walls.

We visited the home and garden of one of the local samurai. You can see pictures of his armor below.  I am not sure that I would want to be on the other end of this guys’ sword!2016-04-06 10.50.29

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Up until the Edo period, which was a period of peace, they practice their martial arts and the arts of the sword somewhere between 6 to 10 hours each day. Once the period of peace arrived this samurai became collectors of artwork and promoters of culture and art and peace throughout the town. Often commissioning theater, poetry, and other artworks.

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Another great example of a simple, yet powerfully present, Tokonoma

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We then move on to the national landmark, world renowned, Kenrokuen Garden.  The garden’s origins date to 1676. One of Japan’s three finest traditional gardens, Kenrokuen (Garden of Six Attributes) represents the six qualities required for the perfect garden: extensiveness, factitiousness (manmade), antiquity, water, wide prospect, and quiet seclusion. Its trees, ponds, waterfalls, and flowers stretch over grounds of 25 acres. We also view Ishikawa Gate, the only remaining section of the town’s original castle; Higashi Chaya-gai teahouse district; and the Higashi-Chayamach geisha area of tall, narrow houses.

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I think one of my favorite parts of this particular intersection was the female police officer who was so clearly loving her job this day.  She was happily bouncing around with her police whistle, directing traffic, the rickshaws with the Chinese tourists in their Kimonos, the cabs, the cars, and even the dogs!  It was impressive! She was so happy to be there, making sure everyone knew when to move, when to stay, and when it was safe to cross!

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Mini where’s waldo game! Can you see her in blue?  Just to the top right of John in the Red hat!  Too many people to get a good shot, but I couldn’t help but smile – she looked so happy!!

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You can see how large this park actually is!  Amazing!

Parks all over the country are like this – huge sprawling expanses that are right in the middle of everything.  Just lovely, and what a place to be able to escape into from the middle of the city!

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For dinner we dined at a local specialty restaurant (picture someone inviting you to a fine french dining experience – small plates, VERY specialty things, but YUMMMMY!!!!)

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Not for the squeamish!  This is the ovary of a sea cucumber!  Not too bad if I say so myself! (Not too many of the people on the trip were happy about eating that AFTER they found out what it was! 🙂

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This trip is just too much fun! 🙂  Some of what we are seeing I swear I will never see again.  It is really what makes life just that much more amazing!  Talk about the impermanence of everything!  I think Buddhism is starting to rub off on me!

Day 6 – Beauty in the smallest things & Straw Roofs

The idea of a Tokonoma intrigues me.  It is such a simple display of wealth, power, and beauty all wrapped into one elegant portrayal.  Similar to many other parts of Japanese culture, they find beauty in the smallest things.

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A nail head cover in the hall of the governor. Even the smallest things were beautiful. This was approximately 2 inches in width. It’s a bunny rabbit, a symbol for harmonious living.

The placement of each branch, the curve and reflection of light off of every vase, the correct hanging height of every piece of artwork all held meaning.  I found it fascinating, and very logical, everything in a room’s place to be viewed from the sitting height. In order for us to properly understand the beauty of much of the country we needed to either be kneeling or sitting on the floor.

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Today we went to visit the hall of the governor in Takayama before we headed on to Shirakawago.  As you can see below the governor in the room in which others would come to me him had an absolutely beautiful Tokonoma.

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View from the governors personal room

View from the governors personal room into the courtyard

After the brief idea of what it was like to be a commoner, (which by the way you cannot really see from here because you would be sitting on the dirt floor outside of the hall to even be able to address the governor), we headed on to Shirakawago, a UNESCO world heritage site compromising thatched roof homes relocated from villages that were raised for the construction of a dam nearby.

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In addition to its status as a world heritage site, the village also is a vibrant living community’s residence work together to preserve the Gassho-style architectural style unique to this region: wooden houses with steep thatched roofs made to withstand heavy snows.

One of the questions that was brought up is how frequently do the roofs need to be replaced? According to our guide to Tanidasan, the roof only needs to be replaced every 60 years if there is a proper fire being burnt inside the house, as the smoke will seal the straw against leakage and pests. If there is no fire being burnt the roof will last for 30 years!  Much better than our warranties in the States!

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in the following picture you can see the home proudly displaying four fish flags. Each fish flag represents a son in the family, and promotes to the neighbors that they have eligible sons to marry off. In the culture in Japan only the oldest son inherited anything. So all other boys were expected to make their living performing some other skill. They may become warriers, artisans, artists, or businessmen.

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One of the things that I found fascinating about this particular village was that in the waterways actually created their own system of easy fishing. What you are seen below is carp that they will eat if the weather becomes too unbearable to hunt.

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And of course, what village would exist without the due from the governor’s house?

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