I LOVE my Vest!!!

OK – Random interlude to the regularly scheduled updates on travel.   I just HAVE to say – I LOVE MY VEST.  ScottVest is the BEST for travelling!

Tim Ferriss is my favorite author for lifestyle hacking. One of my favorite questions that he asks his guest on his podcasts is: What have you recently spent $100 or less on that has greatly improved your life. Below is a pictorial version of my answer:

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My answer (for travel related purposes) is my SCOTTeVEST Men’s RFID Travel Vest – I got it on sale (so it counts) and boy oh boy do I use that thing! People wonder how I can travel with just my backpack – the vest holds AT LEAST another 20lbs of gear! It’s my “life” vest! I LOVE IT! (How can you go wrong with an additional 26 pockets??? Don’t I just look so darn happy and peaceful with my best travel buddy! 😛

All I can say to this one is: IF YOU DON’T OWN ONE, AND YOU TRAVEL, YOU SHOULD! PERIOD!

OK – back to the regularly scheduled programming!

Can’t wait to see what life brings next!

PS – BEST way to get through the TSA ever! Put everything in the pockets, fling off the best into their scanners and fly through to the other side! No emptying pockets, reorganizing, getting everything back to it’s place – you are good to go! 🙂

Day 8 – Trains, Pottery, and the Million Buddha Shrine

This morning we board the train for the two-hour journey south form Kanazawa to Kyoto, Japan’s Imperial Capital for a millennium and now the country’s cultural and artistic capital. A true gem with more than 1,600 temples, hundreds of shrines, three imperial palaces, artful gardens, and well-preserved wooden architecture, Kyoto embodies Japan’s rich culture and complex history. The art of kabuki theatre, as well as Japanese gardens, traditional cuisine, and superb crafts thrive here, attracting legions of visitors and Japanese alike.

Now, the trains – a lot of you have seen the posts on facebook about how crowded, smushed, and crazy the train stations were – I don’t think so at all! Actually they were very organized, well run, and clean!

I was waiting in line at one of the restrooms (when isn’t there a line for women anywhere in the world!) and by accident one of the other tourists hit a red button on the wall.  Almost immediately (5 seconds max!) a female police officer came over (in a very orderly run if you can ever call a run orderly) and peered into the line asking if there was a problem, was someone hurt!  I was SO impressed!  Even if America had a button for an emergency, we would be talking about a 20 minute wait before someone came over, and it would have been a slow crawl instead of such amazing service and assistance.  Go Japan!

But, back to the trains, as you can see in the pictures below – I don’t think it was all THAT bad!  Your thoughts?

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Upon arrival in Kyoto we visited the currently producing pottery shop of a very ancient pottery family, Unrakugama Pottery, a family-owned pottery house producing fine handmade ceramics and earthenware..  They have been producing and training professional potters for over 125 years in this very location!

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After visiting the pottery center, we then went to see the shrine of 1 million Buddhas – the Sanjusangen-do.2016-04-07 14.45.49

I really wish that we were able to take pictures inside, but we weren’t able to do this.  The Buddhas were too old and they were afraid of flashes destroying more of the beautiful gold leaf and designs on each of the Buddhas.  So, the best I can do is some fun pictures of me outside of the main temple and a few websites for you to see professionally allowed photos of the shrine.  2016-04-07 14.48.522016-04-07 14.47.092016-04-07 14.46.332016-04-07 14.46.002016-04-07 14.47.35
[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gDDK-Fof-A]

In the temple itself there are one thousand life-size statues of the Thousand Armed Kannon which stand on both the right and left sides of the main statue of Buddha.  Each statute has 100 arms for a total of 1 million hands to help lift your spirit to enlightenment / heaven.

A few websites with some amazing photography of what we saw – just breathtaking!!

Sanjūsangen-dō – on Wiki

Google Images

 

Day 7 – Kanazawa, Gold, Samurai, & Sea Cucumbers?

Today we toured the Hakukokan Gold Leaf Museum in Kanazawa.  This is one of the top 3 producers of Gold Leaf in all of Japan (Kanazawa produces over 98% of all gold leaf in the world!).  Our representative at the house and gallery was very proud of his company, you could tell by the pride and fervor with which he spokes of his company, their history, and what amazing product they make. The Hakukokan celebrate the art and craft of gold leaf technology and houses a collection dating to the late 16th century! Pretty cool!

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You can see these replicas of temple pagodas which have been covered from top to bottom in gold leaf.

If you zoom in on the pictures you will notice that there is not the slightest wrinkle in any way on any of these intricate details. Gold leaf is applied by hand and can only be touched with chopsticks because the gold leaf is so thin that it will stick to your fingers and the oil on your hands if you attempt to touch it.

They even put it on food here! The gold is supposed to pull all impurities out of your system as it passes through! Love it!

Here you can see a video of an artisan pounding the boldly using the machine. In the past this process was done by a master and his student. With the master slowly turning the bundle and the student using two hammers to pound the package of goldleaf. NOTE! That drumming sound you are hearing from the machines in the video below – inside that room it’s as loud as the inside of a jet engine!!!  Thank goodness for earplugs!

One of the things that I thought was interesting was how all of the pieces of this process are then being used again in some other way. The pieces of paper that separate each small sheet of gold leaf as it gets pounded are later used as Oil Blotting Paper Sheets
(historically by the geisha, and currently by the local girls while they are out on a hot summer day). I have to admit that I bought a package for myself, and have been using it along the trip. I will definitely be buying more of this for our hot Arizona summers!

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The glittering Kinpaku no Ma (or Room of Gold) is especially beautiful!

 

Next we went to the Nagamachi Samurai district, where the ruling family’s samurai warriors lived on narrow streets protected by tile-roofed earthen walls.

We visited the home and garden of one of the local samurai. You can see pictures of his armor below.  I am not sure that I would want to be on the other end of this guys’ sword!2016-04-06 10.50.29

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Up until the Edo period, which was a period of peace, they practice their martial arts and the arts of the sword somewhere between 6 to 10 hours each day. Once the period of peace arrived this samurai became collectors of artwork and promoters of culture and art and peace throughout the town. Often commissioning theater, poetry, and other artworks.

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Another great example of a simple, yet powerfully present, Tokonoma

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We then move on to the national landmark, world renowned, Kenrokuen Garden.  The garden’s origins date to 1676. One of Japan’s three finest traditional gardens, Kenrokuen (Garden of Six Attributes) represents the six qualities required for the perfect garden: extensiveness, factitiousness (manmade), antiquity, water, wide prospect, and quiet seclusion. Its trees, ponds, waterfalls, and flowers stretch over grounds of 25 acres. We also view Ishikawa Gate, the only remaining section of the town’s original castle; Higashi Chaya-gai teahouse district; and the Higashi-Chayamach geisha area of tall, narrow houses.

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I think one of my favorite parts of this particular intersection was the female police officer who was so clearly loving her job this day.  She was happily bouncing around with her police whistle, directing traffic, the rickshaws with the Chinese tourists in their Kimonos, the cabs, the cars, and even the dogs!  It was impressive! She was so happy to be there, making sure everyone knew when to move, when to stay, and when it was safe to cross!

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Mini where’s waldo game! Can you see her in blue?  Just to the top right of John in the Red hat!  Too many people to get a good shot, but I couldn’t help but smile – she looked so happy!!

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You can see how large this park actually is!  Amazing!

Parks all over the country are like this – huge sprawling expanses that are right in the middle of everything.  Just lovely, and what a place to be able to escape into from the middle of the city!

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For dinner we dined at a local specialty restaurant (picture someone inviting you to a fine french dining experience – small plates, VERY specialty things, but YUMMMMY!!!!)

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Not for the squeamish!  This is the ovary of a sea cucumber!  Not too bad if I say so myself! (Not too many of the people on the trip were happy about eating that AFTER they found out what it was! 🙂

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This trip is just too much fun! 🙂  Some of what we are seeing I swear I will never see again.  It is really what makes life just that much more amazing!  Talk about the impermanence of everything!  I think Buddhism is starting to rub off on me!

Day 6 – Beauty in the smallest things & Straw Roofs

The idea of a Tokonoma intrigues me.  It is such a simple display of wealth, power, and beauty all wrapped into one elegant portrayal.  Similar to many other parts of Japanese culture, they find beauty in the smallest things.

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A nail head cover in the hall of the governor. Even the smallest things were beautiful. This was approximately 2 inches in width. It’s a bunny rabbit, a symbol for harmonious living.

The placement of each branch, the curve and reflection of light off of every vase, the correct hanging height of every piece of artwork all held meaning.  I found it fascinating, and very logical, everything in a room’s place to be viewed from the sitting height. In order for us to properly understand the beauty of much of the country we needed to either be kneeling or sitting on the floor.

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Today we went to visit the hall of the governor in Takayama before we headed on to Shirakawago.  As you can see below the governor in the room in which others would come to me him had an absolutely beautiful Tokonoma.

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View from the governors personal room

View from the governors personal room into the courtyard

After the brief idea of what it was like to be a commoner, (which by the way you cannot really see from here because you would be sitting on the dirt floor outside of the hall to even be able to address the governor), we headed on to Shirakawago, a UNESCO world heritage site compromising thatched roof homes relocated from villages that were raised for the construction of a dam nearby.

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In addition to its status as a world heritage site, the village also is a vibrant living community’s residence work together to preserve the Gassho-style architectural style unique to this region: wooden houses with steep thatched roofs made to withstand heavy snows.

One of the questions that was brought up is how frequently do the roofs need to be replaced? According to our guide to Tanidasan, the roof only needs to be replaced every 60 years if there is a proper fire being burnt inside the house, as the smoke will seal the straw against leakage and pests. If there is no fire being burnt the roof will last for 30 years!  Much better than our warranties in the States!

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in the following picture you can see the home proudly displaying four fish flags. Each fish flag represents a son in the family, and promotes to the neighbors that they have eligible sons to marry off. In the culture in Japan only the oldest son inherited anything. So all other boys were expected to make their living performing some other skill. They may become warriers, artisans, artists, or businessmen.

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One of the things that I found fascinating about this particular village was that in the waterways actually created their own system of easy fishing. What you are seen below is carp that they will eat if the weather becomes too unbearable to hunt.

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And of course, what village would exist without the due from the governor’s house?

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Day 4 – Mt Fuji (The Cookie) & Hakone National Park

This morning we left Tokyo to head out into the countryside.  Our first stop of the day was to be Mt Fuji.  Now, you’ll notice from the title that Mt Fuji was a cookie.  Yes, you read that right, a cookie.

After many hours of travel by bus we had one heck of a day!  First, we were on our way up the Subaru line up the mountain of Fuji.  We waited, patiently, in line with the other buses, only to find out that the poor weather conditions (see clouds and high changes of rain) would block us from going above the 4th station (we could only see the peak over the 5th station) AND to even get to the 4th station would take us 4 hours!!!!  Well, considering none of us were that terribly upset about skipping a 4 hour crawl up the mountain, we took some pictures in the snow and headed back down the Subaru line.

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My new favorite cookies (saved the day so I got to See Mt Fuji!)

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What Mt Fuji looked like on the day I went! Gorgeous right?

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Darn that cookie was good!

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One of the best professional shots of what Mt Fuji “SHOULD” have looked like while we were there (with all the full glory of the beautiful cherry blossoms we were seeing!)

Cool random side tangent re: the Subaru line – I didn’t know but it was named Subaru line because the drive up the mountain appears to take you straight upwards towards the Pleiades star group (a very important group in Japanese culture.) This is why the automobile symbol for Subaru is the group of stars! I never knew! 🙂

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So, down the road we headed.  We were going towards Hakone National Park to do a boat cruise on the Hakone Caldera Lake.  Well, considering we missed our boat twice in two different locations, we gave up on that too!  Pretty, but we were all getting tired from all the running around!

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So, now, on to something more interesting.  Some of the ladies were getting hungry so we asked to stop at a rest stop to get some food.  I certainly wasn’t expecting a fully automated kitchen!  It was amazing!  There were only a few attendants to clean away dishes and hand you your order, and a single chef, but otherwise ordering and  taking your money was completely automated!  AMAZING!  Who knew that at a rest stop they would have something so high tech!

2016-04-03 13.15.27 First you pick what you want

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NOTE: there was also an awesome local market – um yeah, we don’t get carrots this size! I think we are being cheated!!!

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Well fed and back on the bus we went.  Heading for our Ryokan.  Ryokan’s are where the travellers of the past would stay.  Samurai, merchants, lords, all of the above.  The hotel was very nice, clean, and staff very willing to help – as I’ve become accustomed while I am here.

 

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The “greeting room” for all new visitors to this particular Ryokan.

A panorama picture of our room.  Cool right!  VERY comfortable and I have to admit that I LOVE not having a bunch of “stuff” around me.  It’s extremely peaceful!2016-04-03 15.51.30.jpg

Before dinner, I had about an hour to kill, so I went roaming around this peaceful town.  <3!!!  Check it out!

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Can you see?  Even a Sith Lord needs to take a relaxing weekend in Takayama!!

 

This Ryokan has a hot spring bath, as we were close to the Caldera, and of course, we had our full Japanese dinner (meaning a 3 hour event with more food than any human can really eat!).

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55 degrees outside, and about 102 in the baths.  PERFECT!!!

After dinner, up to bed I went.  Sleeping on tatami mats I thoughts was going to be rough, but really it was quite nice.  The only issue that I had was being able to “roll out of bed” to my feet.  I actually had to muster the morning strength to “get up” out of a bed on the floor (versus my 4ft high mattress on risers at home [so that Thor doesn’t try to climb into bed with me! (Thor is my 150lbs Beauceron, biggest baby ever, and if I let him into bed I would be on the floor!!]).

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The view from our dinner space.  Um, yeah, peaceful.  <3

How can you not get a good nights rest after that!!!

PS – want a good ghost story??  So, for those of you that haven’t fallen asleep with the “peace” of that last image, let me tell you a tale!

So, as you know I am on this portion of my trip with my Mother.  I adore my Mother but we have different travel habits for sure.  In each room at this Ryokan they had little slippers for that room (you changed shoes a ton!).  So, in the very small bathroom they had a pair of slippers for the floor.  Mom didn’t want to trip over them, so she put them up on a counter.  I didn’t know why they weren’t on the floor, so I moved them back.

Mom looks at me and says “I think there is a ghost in this room.”

Why mom? What’s going on?

Well, I moved these shoes and now they are back where they were.

I laughed!  “Yes Mom, there is a little old lady spirit who wants her shoes just a certain way.” (I said jokingly.)  “I moved them.” 🙂  Mom just laughed and said OK – thank goodness she didn’t go to sleep thinking there was a ghost!! 🙂

Can’t wait until tomorrows adventures!

Shauna~

Day 2 – Tokyo Proper

Waking up in Tokyo is fun for sure!  The blackout curtains in our hotel are so dark I couldn’t tell what time of day it was!  And, of course, a few hours of time difference to home (16 to be precise).  So, waking up at 1:30am Tokyo time to check emails and be wide awake is always fun! 🙂

But, there is something special about being in a new place with no where to really go for a few hours.  I was able to read more about the neighborhood that we are in, what the local top rated restaurants are, and where the historical locations to go are.

After a few hours of reading about the Shogunate and the history of Edo (pronouced like “meadow”) (now called Tokyo) ending in 1868 I was ready to head out with the group to Tokyo.

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A brief view from our hotel (which, by the way, starts on floor 25 of the Shiodome Media Group tower).  This is the view from floor 27 (of 34).

Today we headed out to Meiji Shrine Park & Asakusa Kannon Temple.

Meiji Shrine:

This was built for Emperor Meiji to commemorate the amazing and wonderful things he did for Japan – bringing it into the public world and away from separatism of Old Japan.  Read about it on Wiki here.

We learned all about the history of the place, the shrines, and the political and still spiritual importance of the place.

As you walk into the park you are surrounded by amazing forest, beautiful shrines amoungst the trees, and birds chirping everywhere.  We were also greeted by a procession of Shinto Priests on their daily route to the main temple.  I have to admit, my favorite part is the sound of the gravel crunching under the wooden shoes.  I don’t think those things would be comfortable, but they seemed just fine.  (Lots of practice and walking I am sure!).2016-04-01 09.54.57.jpg

We then had to ensure that we cleansed ourselves by walking through the large gate (there are a lot of these all over Japan – they are meant to cleanse your body of negative thoughts, emotions, day to day troubles etc as you enter a holy place) and proceeding to also wash our hands with fresh spring water from the underground aquifers.

We were lucky to be able to see not only the priests that day, but also a lovely wedding – gorgeous bride – and a whole team of new recruits for a company here in Japan being blessed on the first day of the companies fiscal year for prosperity in the new year! (No photos allowed inside the temple! Sorry guys! You will just have to visit! 🙂 )

Then on to Asakusa Kannon Temple.  This was fascinating for me! I LOVE busy places – people, smells of food, vendors, lots of colors! One of my favorites.  Basically, like most religious gathering places, there are tons of people making it a community.  Japan is no different!

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Some ladies purchasing good omens for their coming month. Small donations for big wishes!

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Can you tell how happy I am to be here? I LOVE the cherry blossoms! They are everywhere this time of year!

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Just hanging outside on my patio!  Apparently there are quite a few home owners that wouldn’t give up their homes as Tokyo grew so there are many single small homes in amoungst the giant corporate towers.

 

After leaving the temple we were sent out on our own for the afternoon to checkout the city.  I LOVE SUSHI!!!  So, after 3 months ago finding out that I was headed to Japan, checking to see if I could get into Jiro’s sushi 3 Michelin Star Sushi restaurant, and being told that the reservations are 2 years out, I decided the next best thing would be to get sushi straight from the source.  I headed to Nippon Fish Market for the afternoon.

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I know, it doesn’t look like much, but this is where the most expensive fish in the world is sold.  1.8 Million dollars later – for a fish!.

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My sushi on a revolving belt.  LOVE IT! 🙂

So, after eating some delicious sushi and finding some Mochi balls (Mango, my Mom’s favorite) I headed back towards the hotel and stopped in at the Hamarikyu Gardens (the old imperial gardens).

The smell of the flowers was overwhelming! And Ravens everywhere (one of my favorites) and lovely, lovely views – very Zen – at every turn.  Did you know that Zen garden designs will actually change the ground you are walking on to ensure that you stop to see they view they want you to?  If they have a path with small steps, you are meant to focus on the walking, when there is a large step / stone you are meant to stop and look around.  Check it out!

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Really reminds me of central park in New York City!

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The oldest black pine in the whole world – 300 years old!

 

So, even though the park was amazing, I have to admit, so was the walk back.  Even the manhole covers are lovely!  2016-04-01 16.04.57.jpg

One of my favorite parts so far of Tokyo is the dichotomy of the integration between the natural landscape and the giant corporate towers that exist.  This picture perfectly summed that up for me.

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Two businessmen walking away to a hidden garden path behind the corporate buildings filled with beauty, flowers, small vines and trees, all ready for Spring to arrive!

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Well, if that wasn’t enough for one day – adventure and beauty all wrapped in one – for the evening we went out for a traditional group Japanese dinner.  KAMPAI everyone2016-04-01 19.10.54.jpg2016-04-01 20.13.15.jpg2016-04-01 19.57.08.jpg

One more night in Japan down, and many more amazing journeys to live!